Takabe Shrine’s Knife Ceremony and the Elvis of Shinto (高家神社と神道のエルヴィス)

On October 17th, I went to Takabe Shrine in Chikura to see their famous Knife Ceremony.

Apparently, Takabe Shrine is the only shrine in Japan dedicated to a god of cooking. A few times each year, on set days, they have the Knife Ceremony,  a ritual in which a specialist uses only a knife and a set of chopsticks to butcher a whole fish into sashimi.  He does this without touching the fish with his hands even once.  I heard this used to be performed for the emperor.

I don't understand it all well enough to explain, so take a look at some photos!

I want those pants!

 cleaning the cutting board

done cleaning!

purifying tools

He was waving that around so I think that means purifying.

gotta do the chopsticks, too!

Finally the fish comes out.  As you can see, the fish is vomiting decorations.  This pleases the gods.

This was my favorite part! This guy does the cutting, and he came out in a kimono with super long sleeves.  He sat down and then flung his arms out to his sides for the men behind him to tie up (out of his way).  Somehow this movement reminded me of Elvis!

It was like this!

I was really worried he was going to cut himself.

Look at how he holds those chopsticks!  I can barely use chopsticks the normal way...

"I am finished here.  Bring me the plate!" (said without words)

I just want to know, what's the deal with grandpa's hat?

The finished product.

I've got to say, I tend to prefer flashier rituals and festivals (I know, typical American).  This one was pretty calm and simple in classic Shinto fashion.  Plus, it was hot as Hades outside!  The heat zapped a good part of my concentration.  All the same, this is a very famous ritual, so if you have time, it's worth checking out.  Look for Elvis when you come.

By the way, did you know that by the Japanese naming, October is called 神無月?  It's pronounced 'kanazuki' and it means "the month without god(s)".  According to legend, all of the gods in all of the shrines in Japan go to Izumo Taisha in Togane Prefecture for a big meeting.  Since there are no gods in people's local area, it's called the month without god.  

I wonder why they perform a ritual for the god when the god isn't there?  

No one can answer my question, lol.

Well, they'll do it again on November 5th, so hopefully the god can catch that one.

Liz

They're hidden everywhere! ~Komatsu Temple in Chikura ~

  Every fall, Komatsu temple becomes a popular tourist destination, known for it's beautiful autumn colors.

毎秋、紅葉がきれいな場所として小松寺は人気な観光地になるのです。

On the way to see the Knife Festival at Takabe Shrine, Chikura area expert SR-san and I stopped by Komatsu Temple to see if the leaves have started to change.

高家神社の包丁式に行くついでに、千倉のエキスパートのSRさんと小松寺に寄って、葉の色が変わり始めたかどうか見に行きました。

They haven't.

変わってないです。

But, it's still a really tranquil, relaxing temple to visit and just walk around, or sit under on the bench on the 'mini island' and read a book.

でも、とても静かなお寺で、お散歩か「小島」で読書をするのにすごく良いお寺だと思います。

The view of the 'mini island' (my naming) and the pond from the parking lot.  Look at the lily pads!
駐車所から「小島」の眺め。睡蓮の葉をみて！

Dragon doggies!  They're actually called shi-shi or komainu; I think they're more like a mythical lion beast.

It's called "ah" because he has his mouth open.  On the other side of the entrane is "um", who has his mouth closed.  "Ah" and "Um" figured often guard entrances to shrines and temples.

The smaller of the buildings in the complex.  Can you find "ah" and "un" in the carving? 

I love the intricate wood carvings at temples.
お寺と神社の彫り物が大好き！

I found a few of these tiny straw sandals tied around the front doors to the building.  I wonder who they're for?
(please excuse my man-hand, it's there for scale)
扉に何足かの小さな草履が付けてあったんです。誰の草履でしょう？
（私の男らしい手を気にしないで下さい。小ささを伝える為です）

scariest elephant ever, not gonna lie
超怖い象、本当に

the front of the larger building.  It would've helped if I took a photo of the whole thing, huh?  I'm obsessed with the carvings.

dragon dog "Um"
吽

dragon dog "Ah"
I wonder if "Ah is always right and "Um" is always on the left
阿はいつも右で吽はいつも左なのかな？

By the way, super-expert SR-san told me a little about "Ah" and "Um". 

ちなみに、スーパエキスパートSRさんは私にちょっと阿吽について教えてくれまた。

Here's how the conversation goes:

その話はこんな感じでした：

SR: Do you know about Ah and Um?

阿吽知ってますか？

Liz: I know that they're often posted at the entrance to temples and shrines but I don't really understand    their meaning.

よく神社やお寺の門でみるけど、その意味が良くわからないです。

SR:  What do you do to a baby when it's born?

赤ちゃんが生まれたらどうしますか？

Liz: Um...you make it cry to make sure it's breathing.

えぇ。。。息が出来ているかどうかを確認する為に泣かせます。

SR:  Right.  So when we're born our mouths are open. What about when a person dies?

そうです。だから、人は生まれた時にみんな口が開いています。死ぬ時は？

Liz: Um....we have a funeral?

あのう、お葬式を行います？

SR:  Yes, and when people die we close their mouths.

そうです。そして人が死ぬと我々はその人の口を閉じますよね。

Liz: （in my head; Yeah it'd be scary if they were open.）  Oh, right...

        「頭の中：開いてたら怖いね」あ、そうですね。      

SR: Think of it as them signifying the life cycle of humans.　Or, so I've heard.

だから、人間の生死を象徴するよな物だと聞いてます。

Liz:  It's the circle of life! Wow you're like, a genius.

        Circle of lifeなんだ！（ライオンキングの歌）SRさんすごいね！

笑！

I learn something new every day :-).

Liz

P.S.  SR says this explanation isn't true, but I think it's a good story so I'm going to believe it!

Restaurant Spotlight: Saint Schwein

Let me start by apologizing for the lack of photos! I was so starving I started eating before I remembered to take any.

Saint Schwein is a German Restaurant and deli in Miyoshi.  (It feels like I am always in Miyoshi lately, but since they grow fruits and vegetables, flowers, and have dairy and meat farms, it's a great place to eat.)

The exterior looks like a giant log cabin; you can see a yellow sign from the street but the entrance is in the back. (I found this out after I wandered around trying to figure out how to get in and got told by the owner(?) to respect their privacy...embarrassing.)

In the back/front there is a really lovely wooden porch.  Many of the trees used to make the porch were left intact, and there are plants and vines wrapped around the roof and pillars so it really feels like a tree house in the middle of the woods. From the patio table to you can look out to a wide stretch of green rice and flower fields (which, again, I definitely should've taken a picture of).

Moving on, let's get to the food! The main things on the menu seemed to varieties of grilled sausage platters ,  pot-au-feu, and pizza.  I got the pizza (you know I can't resist) and my friend got the pot-au-feu set.  They  both came with a salad (which had yummy fruit and ham in it) and a drink.

They had bacon pizza and sausage pizza. I chose the sausage. The crust is crispy and chewy and yummy, and the sauce tastes homemade. Would've been perfect with a generous dusting of red chili flakes and parmesan!

My friend got the pot-au-feu.  It's a clay pot filled with sausage and fresh vegetables in a light broth.  The sausage is hand made and comes in plain, cheese, and a peppery herb flavor.  When you bite them, they make a popping sound - great flavor and nice and firm!  The meal also comes with rice or bread.

I was inspired by the last dish, so a few days later, I made pot-au-feu at my house using fresh vegetables I got at the farmer's market at Hina-no-Sato (also in Miyoshi, about 3 minutes from here).  Since the veggies were cheap, I made a pot large enough to feed a family of 6 for about 700yen!  It was delicious, but store-bought sausages can't live up to the hand-made ones at Saint Schwein!

I hear Saint Schwein also has a delicious wine and beer selection, so feel free to head there for dinner, too.  They're reservation only, though, so call before you come :-).

Check out their website at http://www.hamuya.com/

Liz

Gallery SFK: A Hidden Gem in the Countryside

Last month, I visited a lovely, quiet art gallery tucked away on a hill in Miyoshi called Gallery SFK.  There was an article in the newspaper about an exhibit featuring the photos of a volunteer group that makes monthly visits to Tohoku to help the victims of the 3/11 earthquake and Tsunami, so I decided to go take a look.

Here it is!  You'd never find it if you weren't looking for it.

I really like the warm atmosphere and the meticulously clean space.

The photos were great!  I definitely want to support the group's volunteer efforts.

The owner/manager of the gallery, Ms. Yamaga (far right), also teaches sumi-e.   These are two of her students.

I'm going to take sumi-e lessons, too!

Isn't Mrs. Yamaga cute?

Since then, I have been back to the gallery 3 times and they had 3 different exhibits.  I'm thinking about asking to use the space for a party in the near future, too.  Just when I was missing art galleries and museums, I stumbled upon a hidden jewel.